Thursday, November 04, 2010

The new punchlist:

Fuel lines run from wings to gascolator
Fuel filter
Run line for AOA into wing
Install ammeter shunt
move solenoid location
Install final wires to bus
Wire batter & alternator together
Install split throttle
Install choke

Patch fiberglass on doors
Order Garmin 496
Create wire access port on dashboard
Final windshield instal + sealing
Seal sunroof
Order & install steering boots
Final instal on position light wiring
Adjust control tensions
Final wire secure in hatch
Check all cotter pins, saftey wire, bolts
Install elevator VGs
Install dorsal fin
Final upholstrey install
Install oil door.
Replace gear with Grove brakeline drilled gear
Replace landing gear pads
RTV the FWF firesleeving
Run brake lines
Install jury struts
EAB plaque
Instal static port

Monday, August 23, 2010

The engine is almost ready to go. Below is the "punch list" that I could come up with. More is likely to be added

  • Install battery
  • RTV the FWF firesleeving
  • Replace pads on main gear leaf
  • Replace main gear leaf with Grove replacement
  • Run brake lines
  • Elevator cables
  • Hang flaperons, connect to push rods
  • Wire amp shunt
  • CHT calibration, install
  • Upholstery for interior
  • Install elevator trim motor
  • Replace temp tie down stations with adele clamps in aft fuselage
  • Replace aileron bellcranks
  • Clean off sharpie markings
  • Finish re-run of strobe, nav wires & map lights
  • Run fuel lines from wings to gascolator
  • Install jury struts
  • Prime V-Frame
  • Cargo net
  • EAB plaque
  • Steering rod boots
  • Install fuel filter
  • Fix bad fiberglass trim on passenger door.
  • Run AOA line
  • Install static port
  • Install Pitot/AOA tube
  • Replace bad rivets

Monday, March 08, 2010

Thanks to a team of really great friends, the project is now in at an airport.

I have worked up a punch list of the stuff that needs to be done before the first flight, but engine start should be before the end of March.

  • Finalize access hatch

  • Replace bad rivets

  • Finish securing wires

  • Buy Oddessy battery

  • Run battery cables

  • Ammeter shunt

  • Battery charging

  • Starter

  • Mags

  • safety wire

  • cotter pins

  • More AN3-4As

  • Brake lines/line clips

  • Rudder pedals

  • Attach wings

  • Elevator bungee

  • Elevator cables

  • Rudder cables

  • Paint

  • Seal windshield, sunroof

  • Attach slats

  • Attach flaperons

  • Slat push rod covers

  • Trim doors

  • Fill door tubes

  • Upholstry

  • Sound deading material

  • Fuel lines/firesleeving

  • Carb heat kit

  • Strobe/position final run

  • Pitot/AOA tube

  • Rivet wingtips

  • Wing root covers

  • Vinyl decals

  • Data plate

  • Install elevator trim motor to elevator

Sunday, February 28, 2010

I spent a day fixing the horizontal stabilizer. About a year ago a test fitting revealed that the forward mount points for 10mm to far inboard on each side.

The entire skin was unzipped. With some careful measuring and luck, I was able to use two existing holes on each side that were 10mm outboard. Many of the bracket holes to the spar became elongated so I enlarged them to A6. The old holes were filled in with A5 rivets.

I took the electrical system apart... again ( fourth time? ) and used an aviation grade spiral wrap conduit to add order to the wires. I then added a piece of L-Angle near that crossed from the pilot side to the passenger side attaching to the bus mount I had fabricated earlier. This was done forward and rear. These provide a very nice spot to secure the bundles against.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

The panel is being put back together on the bench. I found a few small problems with the wiring and am fixing them while it is easy.

I used a rubberizing paint on the panel to make it scratch resistant, insulated and glare resistant. So far I am happy with the results.

Using "The GIMP" I have been creating a series of concepts and variations of the paint job. Taking photos of the project the concepts have been laid over to help judge how it will look on the 3D plane.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

I finally got around to finishing my ( new style ) cowling.

The current version of the manual is incomplete and incorrect. I used a combination of advise from Roger at Zenith, the forum and the HBH video.

Here is how I did it:

1) Fit the top and bottom halves together, sliding the top half into the lip. I then made sure the the seam between the top half and the recessed lip of the bottom half was OK.
2) Clamped and taped it together.
3) Determined the center of the top half of the cowl and the center of the airplane. I then extended forwarrd the rivet lines on the side of the fuselage to use as reference for getting it even.
4) I then determined the angle of the cowl and got it centered and even. I used the seam lines on the cowl in conjection with some rivet lines on the fuselage to get it even and centered.
5) Once I had that I then marked where I neeeded to trip the cowling to clear the gear leg and windshield. I only trimmed the gear leg hole a bit, the molding supplied a large amount of clearence. I trimmed a small a amount of the top cowling to clear the windshield and sealing.
6) Once I had the the cowl trimmed I then drilled and clecoed the front four holes to join the top and bottom halves. I determined my safe area of the fuselage flange taped the cowling into place and drilled the cowling into the fuselage flange. I made the holes A4 sized.
7) I removed the cowling. and clecoed the nutplates onto the bottom cowl for the forward holes. I put the nutplates on the "wrong" side so the barrel was pointing away from the plane.
8) I got each plate parallel with the lip of the cowl and drilled one hole with an A3 bit and clecoed. I then drilled the remaining hole.
9) Removed all the nutplates and drilled the center hole out to AN3.
10) Cleaned & deburred the holes
11) I applied a slight countersink to the A3 holes that hold the nutplate using a hand reamer. Use A3 blind rivets to secure the nutplates. Do not drill out the holes on the nutplates.
12) I drilled out the holes on the top cowling to AN5
13) Using a flat riveter head I riveted the nutplates to the inside lip of the bottom half so the barrel pointed into the airplane.
14) I clecoed the nutplates to the fuselage flange where the cowl met and used a similar technique.
15) At this point I did not install the left and right nutplates where the top and bottom halves of the cowling connect to the fuselage.